Walking the Wall: Day Three, Walton to Gilsland

 

Sunday, June 8 was the day that our hike along Hadrian's Wall got really interesting. We had embarked on this walk from Bowness-on-Solway, the western-most edge of the wall, and we had walked from there to Carlisle, the biggest town on the western section, and then on to the charming village of Walton, but it wasn't until the third day of our walk that we actually began seeing the wall. This little section, at a place called Hare Hill, might be the tallest remaining piece of the wall. Or it might be a 19th century reconstruction. Or it might be what is left of a barn that way made out of wall stones. Whatever it is, it thrilled us. After walking along the path that once held a wall, we were actually seeing wall! Then, almost immediately after seeing the wall, we deviated away from it.

On our third day, we walked what looked like 9.18 miles on the map, but actually ended up being a lot

longer because there were so many interesting things to walk through and around. The first of those things was Lanercost Priory. Founded in 1166 and built of stones taken from the wall, Lancercost was very important during the middle ages. Edward I rested here for five months as he tried to regain his health so that he could battle the Scots. He never made it, dying in Burgh-by-Sands, where his body laid in St. Michael’s church until being transported back to London. 

Lanercost still serves as the parish church. There is a completely intact chapel that seats several hundred, and behind it lies the ruins of the older priory. As we walked through the ruins, the organist was warming up, giving us a background of beautiful music. The ruins are beautiful and haunting, and there are medieval memorials, Victorian gravestones, and Roman altars, giving a sense of the time that has passed and the lives affected by this church. 

Lanercost is an English Heritage site, so if you've bought a pass, it's free to enter. It had a lovely tea room, where we had an early lunch.

Another hour and a half on the trail and we got to Birdowald, which is also an English Heritage Site, and place to stamp our passports. It is one of the best preserved of the 16 forts along Hadrian’s Wall and is situated in a commanding position on a triangular spur of land bounded by cliffs to the south and east overlooking a broad meander of the River Irthing. In Roman times, the fort was known as Banna (Latin for “spur” or “tongue”), reflecting the geography of the site. Birdowald had a lovely little museum that was geared to kids. 

Close to Birdowald we crossed the border from Cumbria into Northumberland. We also crossed a geological border that day, the place where sandstone was replaced by the longer lasting limestone, which explains why we were seeing more and more of the wall. 

That night we stayed in a house in the village of Gilsland. We had two bathrooms for the six of us -- a luxury after sharing one bath at the bunkhouse -- and we had a washer/dryer that worked quite well once we figured out how to use it. 

But the real "find" in Gilsland was the Samson Inn.  This lovely old inn had closed last year. The village, realizing how vital it was to the economy and life of the place, ended up buying it when no one stepped forward. They''ve hired a manager and workers, and the inn now serves meals and has rooms to let. We ate dinner and breakfast there, and they packed us lunches. We were delighted with the place and wish it well in the future. 

The next morning we headed out, knowing that some of the most beautiful and educational days lay ahead of us.